:root {
  --ink: #1b1612;
  --ink-soft: #3d342c;
  --paper: #f3eee4;
  --paper-2: #e8e0d2;
  --white: #faf7f1;
  --vermilion: #b13222;
  --vermilion-deep: #8a2418;
  --forest: #2b4034;
  --forest-2: #3e5a48;
  --gold: #9a7540;
  --stone: #7a7166;
  --line: rgba(27, 22, 18, 0.12);
  --serif: "Iowan Old Style", Palatino, "Palatino Linotype", "Hiragino Mincho ProN", "Yu Mincho", serif;
  --sans: "Hiragino Sans", "Avenir Next", "Segoe UI", sans-serif;
  --mono: "SF Mono", "Hiragino Kaku Gothic ProN", ui-monospace, monospace;
}

* { box-sizing: border-box; }
html { scroll-behavior: smooth; }
body {
  margin: 0;
  color: var(--ink);
  background: var(--paper);
  font-family: var(--sans);
  font-size: 16px;
  line-height: 1.55;
}

img { max-width: 100%; display: block; }
a { color: var(--vermilion-deep); }
a:hover { color: var(--vermilion); }
button, .btn { font-family: inherit; }

.skip {
  position: absolute;
  left: -999px;
  top: 0;
}
.skip:focus { left: 8px; top: 8px; background: #fff; padding: 8px; z-index: 20; }

/* Header */
.site-header {
  position: sticky;
  top: 0;
  z-index: 50;
  display: flex;
  align-items: center;
  justify-content: space-between;
  gap: 16px;
  padding: 12px 28px;
  background: rgba(243, 238, 228, 0.94);
  border-bottom: 1px solid var(--line);
  backdrop-filter: blur(10px);
}
.brand {
  display: flex;
  flex-direction: column;
  text-decoration: none;
  color: var(--ink);
  min-width: 180px;
}
.brand small {
  font-family: var(--mono);
  font-size: 10px;
  letter-spacing: 0.16em;
  text-transform: uppercase;
  color: var(--vermilion);
}
.brand strong {
  font-family: var(--serif);
  font-size: 18px;
  font-weight: 600;
}
.nav {
  display: flex;
  flex-wrap: wrap;
  gap: 6px 14px;
  justify-content: flex-end;
}
.nav a {
  text-decoration: none;
  color: var(--ink-soft);
  font-size: 13px;
  letter-spacing: 0.02em;
}
.nav a:hover, .nav a.is-active { color: var(--vermilion); }

/* Hero */
.hero {
  position: relative;
  min-height: 88vh;
  color: #f6f1e8;
  overflow: hidden;
}
.hero img {
  position: absolute;
  inset: 0;
  width: 100%;
  height: 100%;
  object-fit: cover;
  object-position: 50% 40%;
}
.hero-shade {
  position: absolute;
  inset: 0;
  background:
    linear-gradient(180deg, rgba(20, 12, 8, 0.18) 0%, rgba(20, 12, 8, 0.55) 55%, rgba(20, 12, 8, 0.82) 100%);
}
.hero-copy {
  position: relative;
  z-index: 1;
  max-width: 760px;
  padding: 22vh 8vw 64px;
}
.kicker {
  font-family: var(--mono);
  font-size: 11px;
  letter-spacing: 0.22em;
  text-transform: uppercase;
  color: #e2c48a;
  margin: 0 0 16px;
}
.hero h1 {
  font-family: var(--serif);
  font-weight: 500;
  font-size: clamp(40px, 7vw, 78px);
  line-height: 0.95;
  margin: 0 0 18px;
  letter-spacing: -0.02em;
}
.hero p {
  max-width: 52ch;
  font-size: 18px;
  color: #efe6d6;
  margin: 0 0 28px;
}
.hero-meta {
  display: flex;
  flex-wrap: wrap;
  gap: 10px 22px;
  font-size: 13px;
  color: #d9cbb4;
}

.alert {
  margin: 0;
  padding: 16px 8vw;
  background: var(--vermilion-deep);
  color: #fff7ee;
  font-size: 14px;
}
.alert a { color: #ffe0b0; }
.alert strong { color: #fff; }

.wrap { width: min(1180px, calc(100% - 48px)); margin: 0 auto; }
.section { padding: 72px 0; }
.section h2 {
  font-family: var(--serif);
  font-size: clamp(28px, 4vw, 42px);
  font-weight: 500;
  margin: 0 0 10px;
}
.lede {
  max-width: 68ch;
  color: var(--ink-soft);
  margin: 0 0 32px;
}

.grid-3, .grid-2, .grid-4 {
  display: grid;
  gap: 18px;
}
.grid-3 { grid-template-columns: repeat(3, 1fr); }
.grid-2 { grid-template-columns: repeat(2, 1fr); }
.grid-4 { grid-template-columns: repeat(4, 1fr); }

.card {
  background: var(--white);
  border: 1px solid var(--line);
  padding: 22px;
}
.card h3 {
  font-family: var(--serif);
  font-size: 22px;
  margin: 8px 0 8px;
  font-weight: 600;
}
.card .tag {
  font-family: var(--mono);
  font-size: 10px;
  letter-spacing: 0.14em;
  text-transform: uppercase;
  color: var(--vermilion);
}
.muted { color: var(--stone); }
.small { font-size: 14px; }

.stat-row {
  display: grid;
  grid-template-columns: repeat(4, 1fr);
  gap: 1px;
  background: var(--line);
  border: 1px solid var(--line);
  margin: 28px 0 8px;
}
.stat {
  background: var(--white);
  padding: 16px 14px;
}
.stat b {
  display: block;
  font-family: var(--serif);
  font-size: 22px;
  font-weight: 600;
}
.stat span {
  font-size: 12px;
  color: var(--stone);
}

.choice {
  display: flex;
  flex-direction: column;
  min-height: 100%;
}
.choice img {
  height: 170px;
  width: 100%;
  object-fit: cover;
  margin: -22px -22px 16px;
  width: calc(100% + 44px);
  max-width: none;
}
.choice ul { padding-left: 18px; margin: 8px 0 16px; }
.choice .btn { margin-top: auto; align-self: flex-start; }

.btn {
  display: inline-block;
  text-decoration: none;
  background: var(--ink);
  color: var(--paper) !important;
  padding: 10px 14px;
  font-size: 13px;
  letter-spacing: 0.04em;
  border: 0;
  cursor: pointer;
}
.btn.ghost {
  background: transparent;
  color: var(--ink) !important;
  border: 1px solid var(--ink);
}
.btn.red { background: var(--vermilion-deep); }
.btn-row { display: flex; flex-wrap: wrap; gap: 8px; }

.tabs {
  display: flex;
  flex-wrap: wrap;
  gap: 8px;
  margin: 0 0 28px;
}
.tab {
  background: transparent;
  border: 1px solid var(--line);
  padding: 8px 12px;
  cursor: pointer;
  color: var(--ink-soft);
  font-size: 13px;
}
.tab.is-on {
  background: var(--ink);
  color: var(--paper);
  border-color: var(--ink);
}

.panel { display: none; }
.panel.is-on { display: block; }

.day {
  display: grid;
  grid-template-columns: 88px 1fr;
  gap: 22px;
  padding: 28px 0;
  border-top: 1px solid var(--line);
}
.day-num {
  font-family: var(--serif);
  font-size: 42px;
  line-height: 1;
  color: var(--vermilion);
}
.day-num small {
  display: block;
  font-family: var(--sans);
  font-size: 12px;
  color: var(--stone);
  margin-top: 6px;
  letter-spacing: 0.04em;
}
.day h3 {
  font-family: var(--serif);
  font-size: 26px;
  margin: 0 0 6px;
  font-weight: 600;
}
.chips { display: flex; flex-wrap: wrap; gap: 6px; margin: 10px 0 14px; }
.chip {
  font-size: 12px;
  background: var(--paper-2);
  padding: 4px 8px;
  color: var(--ink-soft);
}
.day-grid {
  display: grid;
  grid-template-columns: 1.15fr 0.85fr;
  gap: 18px;
}
.box {
  background: var(--white);
  border: 1px solid var(--line);
  padding: 16px;
}
.box h4 {
  margin: 0 0 8px;
  font-size: 13px;
  letter-spacing: 0.08em;
  text-transform: uppercase;
  color: var(--forest);
}
.box ol, .box ul { margin: 0; padding-left: 18px; }
.box li { margin: 0 0 6px; }

.stay {
  border-top: 1px solid var(--line);
  padding: 12px 0 4px;
}
.stay:first-of-type { border-top: 0; padding-top: 0; }
.stay b { display: block; }
.stay .meta { font-size: 13px; color: var(--stone); margin: 2px 0 6px; }
.links { display: flex; flex-wrap: wrap; gap: 8px; }
.links a {
  font-size: 12px;
  text-decoration: none;
  border-bottom: 1px solid currentColor;
}

.photo-band {
  height: 340px;
  overflow: hidden;
}
.photo-band img {
  width: 100%;
  height: 100%;
  object-fit: cover;
}
.caption {
  width: min(1180px, calc(100% - 48px));
  margin: 8px auto 0;
  font-size: 12px;
  color: var(--stone);
}

.split {
  display: grid;
  grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr;
  gap: 28px;
  align-items: start;
}
.split img { width: 100%; height: 320px; object-fit: cover; }

.table-wrap { overflow-x: auto; border: 1px solid var(--line); }
table {
  width: 100%;
  border-collapse: collapse;
  background: var(--white);
  font-size: 14px;
}
th, td {
  text-align: left;
  padding: 10px 12px;
  border-bottom: 1px solid var(--line);
  vertical-align: top;
}
th {
  font-size: 12px;
  letter-spacing: 0.06em;
  text-transform: uppercase;
  color: var(--stone);
  font-weight: 600;
  background: var(--paper-2);
}

.map {
  height: 460px;
  border: 1px solid var(--line);
  background: var(--paper-2);
}
.leaflet-container { font-family: var(--sans); }

.checklist label {
  display: flex;
  gap: 10px;
  align-items: flex-start;
  padding: 8px 0;
  border-bottom: 1px solid var(--line);
  cursor: pointer;
}
.checklist input { margin-top: 4px; }

.sources { font-size: 13px; color: var(--ink-soft); }
.sources a { margin-right: 10px; }

.site-footer {
  padding: 40px 0 56px;
  border-top: 1px solid var(--line);
  color: var(--stone);
  font-size: 13px;
}

.route-svg {
  width: 100%;
  background: var(--white);
  border: 1px solid var(--line);
  padding: 12px;
}

.flag {
  display: inline-block;
  font-size: 11px;
  letter-spacing: 0.08em;
  text-transform: uppercase;
  padding: 3px 7px;
  background: var(--forest);
  color: #f3eee4;
  margin-right: 6px;
}
.flag.warn { background: var(--vermilion-deep); }
.flag.gold { background: var(--gold); color: #1b1612; }

@media (max-width: 900px) {
  .grid-3, .grid-2, .grid-4, .day-grid, .split, .stat-row {
    grid-template-columns: 1fr;
  }
  .day { grid-template-columns: 1fr; gap: 8px; }
  .site-header { flex-direction: column; align-items: flex-start; }
  .hero-copy { padding-top: 16vh; }
}